A taste of the Mediterranean that's even sweeter before 6

With her long dark hair and even darker, almond-shaped eyes, Vivian Peterson looks like a figure from a Grecian urn come to life as she approaches a table in Divine's intimate dining room. In one hand she holds a small skillet, in the other a bottle of Metaxa. Deftly tipping the bottle, she douses the contents of the pan with the brandy and sets it aflame. The scent of Metaxa and melting kasseri cheese causes the customer to close his eyes and say, "It reminds me of Adriatica."

"You know, I've heard that from a few people," Peterson says with a smile, setting the skillet of saganaki on the table.

Divine, the Greek/Mediterranean dining spot that Vivian and Zach Peterson opened in Maple Leaf four months ago, resembles the now-shuttered Adriatica restaurant more in spirit than in fact. Like that Mediterranean favorite, Divine inhabits a charming old house and the menu draws inspiration from the owner's Greek roots. But at Divine, moderately priced comfort food is the draw.

Vivian's attentive tableside manner is matched by the rest of the staff. Chef Broc Thompson, also an owner, heads the kitchen. The Hellenic muse at his elbow is Vivian's mom, Titika Vlahos, who no doubt contributes her expertise in making the fragile phyllo pastry wrapping cheese-stuffed tiropita; the robust macaroni-and-meat-layered pastichio; and the humble fasolia, a white-bean stew that, like the heartbreakingly tender lamb shank, is braised in an herbaceous tomato sauce.

Divine

7919 Roosevelt Way N.E., Seattle; 206-526-7919

www.divineseattle.com

Greek/Mediterranean

$$$

Reservations: Recommended.

Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, happy hour 4-6 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, brunch (coming soon) 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.

Prices: Appetizers $3-$15, entrees $8-$27.

Drinks: Inexpensive Greek wines highlight a brief, quirky list; well-made cocktails are available, too.

Parking: Small lot south of the restaurant or on street.

Sound: Quiet to comfortably convivial.

Who should go: For those mad about Mediterranean flavors; an agreeable spot for dining solo or in a group, with a date or with the kids; early birds will love the happy-hour deal.

Cards: MC, Visa, AmEx.

Access: No obstacles.

Thompson uses herbs and spices with gusto. Each tender, rosy slice of Misty Isle Farms beef tenderloin delivered a hit of parmesan butter, garlic and herbs; the heat of pepper; and the crunch of sea salt. Baby lamb chops ($25 special), though a bit well done, wore a coating of garlic, herbs and fine bread crumbs that managed to survive overcharring. A lilting cream sauce infused with lemon revived scallops, also a bit overcooked, much like a sea breeze refreshes a parched sunbather.

Youngsters can choose one of three noodle dishes labeled "For the Little Ones," among them a "petite pastichio" ($7), hefty enough to make you wonder just how large the adult portion is at twice the price. Layers of tubular noodles on top and bottom, mortared with béchamel and cheese, get deliciously crusty in the oven; the middle layer of ground meat reveals a touch of cinnamon.

Those flavors enthralled me more than they did my child, who negotiated a trade for my free-range chicken, a perfectly cooked, semi-boneless breast fulsomely seasoned with garlic and herbs and festooned with artichoke hearts and chopped fresh tomato.

The gorgeous tomato-braised lamb shank could be in livelier company than bland steamed potatoes and what tasted like canned peas.

Most other main dishes merit a colorful assortment of freshly sautéed vegetables, a mix that one night featured undercooked haricots vert, and another night slim, lovely asparagus. If the fat, hand-cut, fried potatoes dusted with oregano don't come with your entree, you can (and should) order them on the side.

Start a meal — or make a meal — by ordering one or several of the mezze, small plates that lend themselves to sharing. Along with the cheesy delights of saganaki and tiropita, you'll find calamari and bruschetta; a grilled portobello mushroom; and keftehakia, three savory little meatballs paired with tzatziki sprinkled with fresh dill.

Tzatziki also accompanies calamari, here presented as tender bites of calamari steak sautéed with lemon and capers. Thick, basil-rich pesto crowns both the gently grilled portobello and the prawn bruschetta. The bruschetta is almost a meal in itself with layers of fresh mozzarella, arugula, roasted peppers and still-warm grilled prawns stacked on huge toasted slabs of rustic bread.

Sweets tilt toward homey and huge. Both the brownie and the baklava, a heavy nut-filled roll of phyllo drenched in citrus syrup, come with enormous scoops of vanilla ice cream. Loukoumades, a heaping bowl of honey-glazed, cinnamon-kissed puffs of fried dough, are lighter but no less filling, because you can't stop eating them until they are gone.

The Petersons have erased all traces of Calypso, the Caribbean restaurant that once occupied this Maple Leaf corner. Soothing neutral shades dominate, except for a touch of turquoise on the seats of the chairs and original artwork (all by Vivian) on the walls. A massive wooden wine rack looms over the window-lined main dining room, where dark-wood tabletops contrast with pale walls and window shades. There's a smaller dining room in the back of the house and a private room tucked under dormer windows upstairs.

Early-bird advisory: Happy hour is a terrific deal. From 4-6 p.m., many of the mezze are half price, as are well drinks, wines by the glass, beers and a roster of whimsically named cocktails (regularly $8-$9), such as Pan's Fateful Frolic, a rosemary-scented Bombay Sapphire martini.

Moreover, you aren't restricted to the bar, which is only a service bar; you can enjoy those discounted prices anywhere you sit, including outside, when warm weather makes the fenced-in patio habitable.

Note to even earlier birds: Weekend brunch begins soon, featuring savory phyllo-wrapped pastries, Greek yogurt, frittatas and salads.

Providence Cicero: providencecicero@aol.com

Sample menu

Saganaki $8

Calamari steak $10

Braised lamb shank $14

Free-range chicken breast $18

Beef tenderloin $27