Editorial
Windy wine-making

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In the Columbia River Gorge, the same confluence of cool, moist air funneled from the coast and dry, warm inland air that makes the Gorge so well suited for wind surfers also has convinced federal regulators that the area's wine grapes deserve some distinction, too.

Effective July 9, the government designated the Columbia Gorge a new American viticultural area. That means winemakers can add "Columbia Gorge" to their labels if 85 percent of the wine's grapes are grown in the new 280-square-mile appellation, Washington state's sixth official wine-growing area.

The appellation straddles the Columbia River for 15 miles, including Washington's Klickitat and Skamania counties and Oregon's Hood River and Wasco counties.

Although it abuts the Columbia Valley appellation on the west, grapes grown in the Columbia Gorge area can be earlier varietals, such as pinot noir and gewürztraminer, while Columbia Valley warmer growing temperatures can nurture later varieties, such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

Washington's first federal appellation — the Yakima Valley viticultural area — was established in 1981, while the last, Red Mountain, was designated in 2001.

For discerning wine enthusiasts, a bottle's appellation line gives more information about the wine in the bottle. It also gives wine growers and wine makers a special distinction to help them in their marketing.

The new Columbia Gorge appellation is also another sign of Washington's rapidly evolving wine industry and its continuing success at demonstrating its uniqueness and versatility.