All You Can Eat
Seattle Times food writer Nancy Leson is on hiatus for the first half of 2012. Until she returns, Rebekah Denn will host the All You Can Eat blog.
Blog Home |
Subscribe | Nancy's Twitter | Nancy's Facebook | KPLU Food for Thought podcast

Rebekah Denn stepping in for Nancy
Rebekah Denn is a James Beard award-winning food writer and former Seattle Post-Intelligencer restaurant critic. She can be reached at rebekahdenn@gmail.com or on Twitter at @rebekahdenn
Comments (0)
E-mail article
Print
Share
I scream about ice cream and (yippee!) frozen custard. You?
Posted by Nancy Leson
If you're as old as me and my radio-sidekick Dick Stein, you can recall running after the Good Humor man in search of frozen-food-fun -- as we discussed this week on KPLU's Food for Thought. But you may have noticed there's been a run on high-quality ice creameries and gelaterias in these parts, an explosion of farmers market ice cream carts everywhere and the introduction of frozen custard shops even better than the ones I recall from my youth. That so many of these sweeteries make a point of using local and organic products only adds to their infinite allure.
Speaking of which: I've yet to introduce my half-pint to the joys of frozen custard, the legendary stuff of Midwestern childhoods, now available at two Seattle venues -- thanks to this week's debut of Old School Frozen Custard on Capitol Hill. (Show up on Saturday from 3-10 p.m. and they'll sport you a free cone!) After a trip to Peaks Frozen Custard on Tuesday, I promised to take Nate there first. I consider it payback, seeing as he recently introduced me to this adorable half-pint, Cle Franklin:

Half Pint Homemade Ice Cream's Cle Franklin scoops ice cream at local farmers markets
Cle -- who spent nearly five years working for FareStart before become a professional ice cream maven -- told me her favorite flavor is plain chocolate chip, "It's the only one I'll eat a whole cup of," she says. I'm partial to her Earl Grey tea-flavored chocolate, sampled at the Edmonds farmer's market last Saturday. And I'm sorry to say she's moving her operation to Bellevue's new Saturday farmers market, a move certain to leave my son bereft seeing as he's not only Cle's biggest fan, but a one-man Half-Pint marketing team -- apparent from his homemade signage:

Nate notes: "Best Ice-Cream Come Here!!! (This was not in any way made by the owner)"
Yes, my boy: I know how much you love Cle's Cookies and Cream, but wait till you get your lips around this:

Quick! Eat it before it melts!
I can't believe Peaks Frozen Custard has been open since November and I'm only just now getting around to checking the place out. Located across from the Roosevelt Square complex near Whole Foods, it's one charming little cafe, both inside and out.

There's real frozen custard inside, and a cone won't cost your Whole Paycheck
While there, I met owner Tim Wolfe, a Wisconsin expat and all-around incredibly nice guy. Tim missed frozen custard so much he gave up an 18-year career with social services to scale the peaks of retail sales with the help of his family. Here at his mid-life crisis center, they're selling Lighthouse Roasters' coffee and devoted to good green living, providing a great stop for the neighborhood (there's a comfortable fireplace nook and a well-stocked kiddie-corner) as well as some of the best custard I've ever eaten. Ask for a taste. There's always chocolate and vanilla on the menu, but I appreciated the honking-big nuts and mini-marshmallows in my heaping spoonful of Rocky Road -- Tuesday's flavor-of-the-day.

Yon Yonson's custard-selling ancestor Tim Wolfe, with his sister-in-law Beth Strempler.
And speaking of flavors: has anyone tried the beet sorbet from Empire Ice Cream? Empire moves a lot of 'scream at the University District Farmers Markets on Saturday and at the Ballard Sunday Farmers Market (where I've downed their brown-sugar specialty). I love the idea of savory-flavored frozen treats and can't wait to try their candied bacon with hazelnuts. Which just happens to be available by the half-pint ($3.98) at Queen Anne's Eat Local, where other flavors (including fresh mint with Theo Chocolate) are in the freezer-case today. You can also get your Empire fix at Queen Anne's Paragon Restaurant & Bar, should you be up there knocking back a cold beer or a cosmopolitan. That beet sorbet really has me intrigued. Who knows, I might just have to roast some beets and experiment with my Krups ice cream machine here at home. Given my last experiment with savory ice cream, I'm dying to give it a whirl -- so to speak.

Raspberry, strawberry, beet, basil: the opportunities are endless.
When it comes to a multitude of flavors both sweet and savory -- and an enormous number of retail and restaurant locations around the Sound -- Whidbey Island Ice Cream's got one heckuva long list, and their product's available from Bellingham south to Olympia. Owner Mike Rudd had a "herd of dump trucks," and hauled gold ore for years before "retiring." These days he and his wife, Mary, are taking the ferry over from Whidbey four days a week come rain or come shine, hauling chocolate-dipped ice cream on a stick to area farmers markets (I love the cardamom!).

Mike and Mary, hauling ice cream in the rain.

Mike and Mary, selling ice cream in the shine.
You'll find their ice cream in Ballard on Sundays, Wallingford on Wednesdays, Madrona on Fridays and in Edmonds on Saturdays. "At first I hesitated to sell at farmers markets," says Mike, "but in the last two years, we've met so many great people and had so much fun." And what could be more fun than selling ice cream? Eating it, of course.

Procopio gelato at Royal Grinders in Fremont. Love that tiny "Lenny scoop" on top!
So tell me, where's your favorite ice cream stop? Have you tried frozen custard yet? Anybody sampled the vegan hemp-milk soft-serve sundaes at Healeo touted today on Daily Candy? It's ice cream weather out there. What are you waiting for?
Copyright © 2009 The Seattle Times Company
Feb 6 - 7:00 AM Hot Cakes chocolatier is opening her own shop
Feb 3 - 7:00 AM What were Andrew Zimmern's "Bizarre Foods" of Seattle?
Feb 2 - 7:00 AM Secrets of the best Super Bowl chili


- Agency set to investigate handling of 911 call about Josh Powell
- Proposal to link Market, aquarium may be too ambitious for Seattle
- Chilling 911 tapes reveal pleas for help to go to Josh Powell home
- UW's Shawn Kemp Jr. makes own way despite familiar name, number | Steve Kelley
- State Medicaid to quit paying for ER visits deemed unnecessary
- NBA's David Stern open to league returning to Seattle
- Prosecutor: Powell's final act ends doubt he killed wife
- Was idea of court-ordered test too much for Josh Powell?
- Local aerospace suppliers say they feel squeezed by Boeing
- California gay-marriage ruling may affect Washington
- Gay-marriage bill passes House, awaits Gregoire's signature
347 - Sheriff's office unhappy with 911 dispatcher in caseworker's call
248 - Historic day for gay marriage as another fight looming
228 - Gay-marriage ruling may affect Washington or Prop. 8 ruling could reach into Washington
196 - State Medicaid program to stop paying for unneeded ER visits
169 - 3 big health insurers stockpile $2.4 billion as rates keep rising
134 - Source: NY, California to sign mortgage settlement
116 - Study shows link between payroll and wins not as big as before, but teams like Mariners still face bigger obstacles than others
109 - Lakewood cop accused of taking donations for slain officers' families
74 - Video --- UW offensive coordinator/quarterbacks coach Eric Kiesau
71
- State Medicaid to quit paying for ER visits deemed unnecessary
- Here it is: The secret to stir-fried chicken | Taste
- Local aerospace suppliers say they feel squeezed by Boeing
- 3 big health insurers stockpile $2.4 billion as rates keep rising
- Dicks channeled federal money to Puget Sound project his son ran
- Buttoned Up: Nine immutable laws of time management
- Happy Hour: French-accented charm at Gainsbourg
- 'Gauguin and Polynesia': dazzling mix-and-match | Art review
- Gay-marriage bill passes House, awaits Gregoire's signature
- Agency set to investigate handling of 911 call about Josh Powell

Listen to Nancy at 5:30 a.m. and 7:30 a.m. during Morning Edition, at 4:40 p.m. during All Things Considered and again the following Saturday at 8:30 a.m. during Weekend Edition on KPLU 88.5.

